The primer is a bonding agent. Unless the manufacturer says you don't need it, you always need it. The slab should be clean first, too...no dust, dirt, etc. prior to applying the primer.
Keep in mind the open time you have (say 10-minutes to 30-minutes depending on the configuration) is the time from when the stuff touches the water until it starts to harden. So, the clock starts once you pour it into the water to mix, and that should not be short-changed (typically about 3-minutes).
You must be exact in your water measurement. SOme of the pails, etc. that are marked out are NOT accurate enough. If you have a choice, start with cold water, it may give you an extra few minutes. And, you must mix with an appropriate paddle at the specified speed for the indicated time. This is a special mix, and the whole texture will change once everything is mixed well - it can appear to be two differnt substances if you compare one mixed well verses one that was not mixed long enough or not at the right speed. Don't even think of trying to mix it without a good 1/2" drill...you'll burn out the motor otherwise. Some of the brands flow better than others. Think thin pancake batter, not crepe batter. You need to move it to create a wet edge, or it will have an edge like a pancake. If you get the whole area wet with the stuff AND you have enough of it, it will level itself. It's not water. Goes back to my comment that most people don't use enough. Over a slab, you can feather edge the stuff, but you don't have much time. It's easier to flood the area, make sure every part is wet with the stuff, and you've got enough to fill in all of the depressions, and enough to cover the high points, or it will act like a coat of paint, and leave the high spot high with a thin coat on top. And, you need to do it all fast! Unless you are doing one depression, you need help, or you'll get in over your head. Measure out the water in advance so you can just pour and mix, pour and mix with someone else seeing to getting it onto the floor and cleaned up. It's not bad if you understand, but you'll create a big, hard, mess if you don't!
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Self-Leveling Compound Manufacturer.
This section provides an overview for self leveling material as well as their applications and principles. Also, please take a look at the list of 11 self leveling material manufacturers and their company rankings. Here are the top-ranked self leveling material companies as of May, 2024: 1.LYONS MANUFACTURING, INC., 2.ARDEX Americas, 3.CTS Cement Manufacturing Corporation.
Self-leveling materials are gypsum or cement-based natural flow materials.
Self-leveling material is characterized by its ability to form a level and uniform level simply by pouring, and is also known as a leveler.
It is a revolutionary flooring material when compared to mortar, which has a similar role to that of self-leveling materials. While mortar finishes vary greatly depending on the skill of the craftsman, self-leveling material can be poured in and then broken in with a tonneau to complete a smooth floor base quickly.
Self-leveling materials are used to prepare floor subfloors with a smooth concrete surface.
Applications include buildings, condominiums, schools, hospitals, factories with heavy vehicles such as forklifts, parking lots, food factories, kitchens, and waterproof basements on rooftops. It is also used for underground adjustment in the preliminary stage of applying finishing materials such as tiles and other floor coverings.
Compared to mortar, which performs a similar function, self-leveling materials are more expensive in terms of material cost, but the short construction period helps to keep costs down.
However, it is difficult to obtain the thickness of self-leveling material in a single installation, and overlaying is required for thicknesses of 20 mm or more. In such cases, mortar is more suitable.
The principle of the self-leveling method using self-leveling materials is that a slurry (suspension) of gypsum and mortar poured onto the floor surface naturally flows to form a smooth floor surface.
The self-leveling process follows the following steps:
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Pre-construction preparation includes level checking and marking. Marking out is the process of drawing out reference lines that serve as horizontal and central positions, such as the centerlines of columns and finished surfaces of walls. To prevent the self-leveling material from leaking outside, gaps are filled with mortar to prevent direct sunlight and wind.
The substrate is cleaned with a special brush as a pre-treatment. Oil and protrusions are treated so that the self-leveling material and the floor can bond well.
Primer is applied and allowed to dry to provide adhesion to the subfloor surface. Primer is a base coat applied to improve the adhesion of materials that do not bite well to paint.
After completing the above preliminaries, the self-leveling material is poured. When pouring the leveling material, ripples and air bubbles generated from the frame may remain as shapes, so if necessary, use a trowel to even out the material.
Details are matched to the ink or level point using a trowel. Finish by pouring gently, quickly, and evenly.
After pouring is completed to the finish level, the curing period begins. Avoid rapid drying until curing is complete. Close the windows to stop ventilation and reduce surface wrinkles caused by wind.
After curing is complete, the self-leveling material is still in a state of excessive moisture, so once curing is confirmed, windows are opened to improve ventilation and promote drying.
Finally, as a pre-completion inspection, we inspect the level of the building after it is ready for walking. We check all areas for joints, joints, and height differences. Any joints, bubbles, etc. that may have occurred will need to be corrected.
Self-levelling materials can be classified into two categories: gypsum-based and cement-based.
It has the property of not expanding or contracting during curing due to hydration reaction. This gypsum-based product has high dimensional stability and is resistant to floating and cracking.
Many cementitious materials feature high strength, and some can be used externally. After curing, they are also characterized by their resistance to water.
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