This year is Allure's 30th Anniversary, and we're celebrating by looking back at iconic moments in beauty from the past three decades. You can read more articles like this one here.
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There was a time when getting filler only meant bigger, bolder, more dramatic features. Whether it was ultra-pouty lips or inflated cheeks, it was almost always an appearance-altering outcome — and that was the only option. And even though the results were blatantly obvious, it was an entirely taboo topic.
Fast forward two decades and you could get fillers without looking overdone — or feeling the pressure to keep it a secret. "By the early 2000s, fillers really started booming and becoming part of the normal vernacular of cosmetic conversation, instead of just for ladies that lunched," says New York City dermatologist Paul Jarrod Frank.
With new innovations, like hyaluronic acid fillers, and refined techniques, dermal fillers have become the norm rather than the exception to smooth lines, plump lips, and contour without downtime. It's easy and (relatively) accessible.
In the most recent years, doctors have fiddled with techniques for subtle results, like flooding skin with shallow injections of hyaluronic acid for a dewy look or contouring with needles. "Rather than correcting lines and giving volume, [the latest] injectables are [even] improving the quality of the skin," dermatologist Mathew Avram tells Allure.
Today, injectables are a big business. The fact that the entire country is — or should be — wearing face coverings, hasn't put a full stop on injectibles like lip fillers. And isn't that a little bit bizarre? Here's a brief look at how we got here.
Early 1990s
Syringes are filled with collagen derived from cows to plump lines — but only for a few months (and injections require an allergy test).
2003
Fillers as we know them are born when Restylane, the first nonanimal hyaluronic acid injectable, gets FDA approval — "promising, even miraculous, new cosmetic treatments seem to debut every week," we write at the time.
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2004
"A substance called Sculptra fills smile lines for years rather than months and stimulates the growth of new collagen in the skin," reports Allure. It is made of polyL-lactic acid (a powdered version of dissolvable sutures).
2007
Beauty is pain, they say.... but dermal fillers don't hurt as much now that lidocaine starts getting mixed into them.
2011
The softest hyaluronic acid filler yet, Belotero Balance, gains FDA approval. Its unique texture doesn't clump like some earlier fillers could, making it possible to smooth shallow lines—like the ones around the eyes and lips — without risking bumps.
2013
Now to the opposite end of the spectrum: A stronger and denser hyaluronic acid filler, Juvéderm Voluma XC, is approved by the FDA in October for volumizing cheeks, and it wins an Allure Best of Beauty Breakthrough Award the following year.
2015
Kylie Jenner owns up to getting lip fillers and Google searches for "lip fillers" increase by 11,300 percent in 24 hours. Within a year they are among the top-five, most-requested, nonsurgical, cosmetic treatments.
2018
It’s not just your Instagram feed. There are a whole lot of people looking different, Allure reports. The number of hyaluronic acid fillers injected soared 85 percent since 2012. And nonphysician injectors — with varying degrees of training and experience — are capitalizing on the demand. (They dole out ccs in salons, tattoo parlors, even living rooms.)
2020
Doctors hone techniques for subtle results, like flooding skin with tiny pinpricks of hyaluronic acid. South Korea is a center of innovation: Doctors use fillers to define the apples of the cheeks and create rounded foreheads and V-shaped jawlines.
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