Hi Sandy, I posted an answer yesterday but it disappeared into the ether. So here it is again.
I draw wire on a regular basis from factory made wire (rarely) to wire that I draw from ingots that I pour in my studio and roll out. I do the latter because it utilizes scrap and gives me just the diameter that I need from the material that I need,
The wire that I mostly draw is from 4mm to .3mm or so. The smaller diameter I use for welding with my pulse arc welder (Orion). The reason that I draw that wire rather than purchase laser wire is that I want to use the same alloy that comprises the piece that I'm working on when I'm filling or adding material.
Here's what I've learned over many drawn out experiences (sorry).
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-Taper is all important. Too abrupt a taper (I call them puppy noses) gives little to pull and snaps off quickly.
-A long gradual taper eases thru the hole and gives you a firmer grip.
BUT
-Remember that the taper is only a leader. I get the wire started by pulling on the taper and then re-grip the wire at the meatier place as soon as I can see it.
-If I can't file the thin wire I'll taper the end with the side of a separating disc, a snap-on wheel or a flat lap.
-Lubrication really helps. Wax, bur-life/lube, even soap or chapstick.
-Anneal-goes without saying. But it may be easier to file the taper on stiffer wire and then anneal.
-I have several draw plates in each size range. The holes never seem to advance evenly (even with some tungsten plates'probably Chinese). I work back and forth between plates.
I've also made a more agile set of draw tongs from linesman pliers that I found at yardsales or junkshops. I bent them by heating with my soldering torch. They grip the small wires more gently and accurately.
The other thing is that finer metals can be a bit more difficult to draw because they want to stretch at the taper before they compress in the plate. Then they snap. So again, a long gradual taper I find id key.
This works for me.
Take care,
Andy
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Andy Cooperman Metalsmith
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